Candid Lounge

Features | Stories | Anecdotes


Published in Times Crest on July 13, 2013.


Read the article here.


                                                                                                           Courtesy: Indian Express
(Image used for representational purposes)


His maroon-grey striped shirt hangs limply on his bony shoulders. He has lost a lot of weight in the last two weeks, he confesses, as he rummages through his black leather handbag for a photograph of his mother. He takes out her passport-size picture.

I notice the curve of her nose and the cleft chin. “You take after her,” I tell him. Bhupendra Chavan smiles through his sunken cheeks. It comes as a relief. This is my first breakthrough in an hour.

Before she went on the Chardham Yatra, like several pilgrims, 58-year-old Manda Chavan decided that she had had a long and happy life. Her 33-year-old son Bhupendra had a stable practice as a lawyer and his wife had even blessed her with a grandchild. With a nothing-to-lose air, she could now go on the journey to the four holy shrines in Uttarakhand, believed by many-a-Hindu as a rite of passage, situated in the foreboding terrain of Himalayas. On the night of June 15, she called her son Bhupendra: “I will be leaving for Gaurikund tomorrow. All is well.”



                                     Courtesy: Bhupendra Chavan

Manda Chavan went missing since June 15 after the cloudburst in Uttarakhand


That was the last they heard of her. The rest, as they say, was a cloudburst. The news anchors clamoured from the tube about the disaster wreaking havoc in Uttarakhand, killing locals and pilgrims indiscriminately. From their living room, the Chavans struggled to get a stock of the situation from the hyperbole expected from the news channels. As the videos of the Ganges in all its fury played on loop in the background, Bhupendra logged on to Google Maps.

“Right in the heart of Gaurikund, there were houses stripped off their roofs. I could read the names of what used to be roads but all I could see was water and debris,” said Chavan. Repeated attempts to contact his mother, her sister Sharada Lokre who had accompanied her, and their fellow travellers had by now proven unsuccessful. He knew he could not stay rooted in their Latur house any longer and boarded a flight to Dehradun.

It was a similar case to Ashok Khetan, an iron and steel trader from Nagpur. Earlier in the month, his elder brother Mahesh had taken his wife, three kids to the yatra. They were accompanied by several of their friends and relatives. As the images on the TV kept getting murkier, so did his temper.

“I could see that the government was doing next to nothing. There were no relief operations in sight,” says Khetan. The life of 15 of his closest people was at stake. “I thought, I will take one of the private helicopters they rent to tourists and do something myself.” Along with 7 relatives, all of them men, he made way to the Nagpur airport.

Khetan and Chavan reached Dehradun airport around June 18. Over the next few days, the two combed all the hospitals in the town from dawn to dusk and then some more. They went through the relief camps, transit points, airports, watched news for hours on end, put up posters of the missing persons, begged the army to let search in the forests, got stonewalled by the authorities, even got in touch with the chief minister.

“I managed to get his number from a local politician from Nagpur. The CM assured me that they were doing their best. But it’s their job to give assurances,” says Khetan wearily. “Does it ever mean anything?”

There were no silver linings for Chavan either. “All my relatives kept saying, ‘He is a lawyer. He knows his way around the government people.’ But once you reach there, everyone is the same – victim, survivor or an army uniform.”

By now, they were a group of about 40 people, mostly Marathi like themselves, similarly in search for their loved ones. It was here that the two crossed paths, and met another son from Latur who had lost both his parents, one from Nagpur who had lost both of his parents; an inconsolable youngster from Agra who had had a love-marriage only 20 days ago and had now lost his wife and family to the floods. Then they heard of 400 villages that were completely off the radar.

“Numbers helped,” says Chavan. The hunt was still on but he managed to regain some of his flagging composure. They weren’t the only one suffering. “Once at the government of Maharashtra camp, we saw a family of five who had just been rescued from the affected region struggling to convince the officials that they were from Maharashtra. The standard practice is that each of those rescued gets Rs. 2,000 to reach home. But nobody had filed a missing complaint for them, nor did they have any IDs.” Struck by the obtuseness of the authorities, he and his group pitched in Rs. 300 each to help out the family. Already disillusioned by The Divine, they had one more entity to add to the list.

The military rescue operations were halted by July 28 due to rough weather. None of the 40 of his group managed to make any headway and returned to their respective towns one by one. Khetan went back to his job with a bad taste in his mouth from the experience and the government’s lackadaisical approach. “If not for the army, I doubt if even half the people would have been rescued,” he says.

I met Chavan on July 3 when aboard the Dehradun Express on its way to Mumbai. Latur doesn’t fall en route but he had just caught the first train out. He has bigger problems to tackle than travel convenience.

“I still haven’t told my father about this. For him, I am in Nagpur, working on some case for the High Court,” he says. He doesn’t want to bring himself to choose what is more important – the truth or the life of his 60-year-old father, a heart patient.



THE OFFICIAL VOICEBOX:


Even after four weeks, the details about the aftermath the tragedy continue to remain foggy. The army claims to have evacuated about 42,542 people while Director General of Uttarakhand Police Satyavrat Bansal has put the rescue figure at 1,50,000 from all across the region. Similar is the case in deaths – the Uttakhand government has put the toll at around 4,000 whereas an UN agency estimates that it is 11,000.

It is a general consensus among the authorities that the people missing are dead. “At this stage, the chances of finding more survivors are very less. We will keep our efforts on till July 15 (when the tragedy completes a month) after which the government will give out compensation,” said Satyavrat Bansal, DGP of Uttakahand.

Officials at the disaster management cell state that the operations in most areas were rounded off by July 1-2 and the one at Kedarnath ended on July 7. Bansal added that bodies are still being found buried under debris and will be so for next few months.

“We are still in the process of compiling the list of those missing. There has been a lot of duplication since people have filed FIRs at multiple places. In the next 2-3 days, we expect to release a definite figure of the number of people missing,” said Bansal.



Published in The Caravan in June 2013. 

Read the article here.

Listen to the audio version here.

Below, I reproduce the original text:


                                                                                                                                   Courtesy: Mithila Joshi

Inder Kumar, from Albert Photo Studio, takes a picture of a deceased woman during her funeral at the Manikarnika ghat in Varanasi


For a city that retreats into its shell much before 10 pm, the photo studios at Manikarnika ghat in Varanasi have unusually busy schedules. Services are offered round the clock at each of the five, stationed on the narrow lanes leading to the crematorium at the ghat. Other than the seemingly unlikely location, none of their shops rouse any curiosity unless you happen to notice the photo-collages on their display rack.

Take ‘Baba Shmashan Nath Photo Studio’. Named after the lesser known God of cremation, its showcase consists of pictures of corpses clad in the brightest of colours – a middle aged woman decorated with marigold and a bald man staring vacantly with an expression of ultimate surrender. Family and relatives of the deceased pose pokerfaced by the limp head, and your eyes temporarily de-prioritise negotiating the way around the omnipresent cow-dumps.

            What one sees isn’t the kind of still photography one is used to. But this business finds roots in the same reasons as every other – there is a market for it.

*

“You want to see fire people?” one of the numerous touts asked me when I walked towards one of the countless ghats along the banks of the Ganges. The boatmen peg their number at 365 (“one for each day of the year”), each contributing to the identity the city loves to project – a gateway to heaven. While most offer salvation to the living, Manikarnika ghat and Harishchandra ghat offer similar facilities for the departed. At the former, the bigger of the two, locals estimate that the number of cremations goes well beyond 300 every day and make every use of the opportunity to lure those interested in more macabre facts and figures. This tout was one such self-appointed text-book.

“They have fire people?” I asked. Having seen snake charmers at the adjoining ghat, I shouldn’t have been as surprised at the prospect of fire-eaters at the next.

“People. On fire. There,” he points out the cremation spot not too far off. I detect the rancid smell in the air. Wisps of ash float about deliriously and settle on the bodies of the bereaved, the undertakers and spectators. Chants of ‘Om namah Shivay’, hailing the Hindu God Shiva, blast from the speakers. Walk further and opens up the stairway to the death industry in Manikarnika ghat – dabblers in funeral paraphernalia, refreshment stalls and of course, the photo studios. In one of lanes, I spot ‘Shmashan Nath Photo Studio’, managed by the 22-year-old Kaushal Jha.

“It’s a fashion,” he says. Dark and lean, he is wearing a Nike cap, one of those that have nothing to do with the better known sports-wear manufacturers. “Then there’s the fact that they want something to remember them by. These pictures are kept in their pooja-ghar and worshipped.”

By now, the locals have gathered around the two of us. Kaushal shows me the portraits he has clicked. They are more-or-less the same composition: either the corpse on the pyre before it is lit or tied to the bamboo-bed in the foreground. The body is flanked by the son or a bunch of relatives. As is the tradition, women are not allowed on the ghat. The general consensus is that they won’t be able to keep their emotions in check.





                                                                                                                                                         Courtesy: Mithila Joshi

A photographer outside his shop on the lanes leading up to the crematorium



“These photographs also work as a proof,” chips in 38-year-old Pandit Ganesh Pandey, one of the onlookers, who declares himself as one of the conductors of last rites. “You don’t get death certificates at this crematorium. Those coming from far off take pictures of the dead bodies and use them to establish the death of a person. Many aren’t even related to the deceased but with the date and time printed on the photograph, they use it to claim their share in the deceased’s property.”

Despite 7-8 years in the business (he often branches out to clicking convicts’ profiles for the Varanasi police), Jha isn’t the oldest in the area. That entrepreneurial crown would go to Albert Photo Studio with boasting rights of 13 years. Unlike other shops, which are mostly just oil-paints with a contact number, Albert’s manages some breathing space in the walls.

The manager, 68-year-old Bilaal Nishad, is a picture of composure. He sits still on the steps, waiting and watching out for the next funeral procession almost meditatively. While his peers idly ask every next tourist the country of their origin, he is the last person to be bothered unless approached.

“Funerals take place 24 hours a day. It is but obvious that our services be tailor made,” he says. Earlier a tourist photographer at Assi ghat in the vicinity, he started his business in the year 2000 after a landlord friend proposed the idea and offered one of his shops.

“The first time I made money from photographing the dead, I could not bring myself to use it for my family. Then I thought, this is what I do for a living. I can’t shirk my responsibilities,” he says. It’s been a while since Nishad has been on the field. His 16-year-old grandson Inder Kumar has taken over since two years. I turn to him. Does he plan to make a career out of it?

“I don’t know,” Kumar smiles weakly.

One hears the chants of ‘Ram naam satya hai’ becoming louder. Nishad stops talking mid-conversation and looks up.

“Photu khichai, bhaiyya?” his voice booms. The carriers ignore him.

He isn’t done yet.

“Want to click a picture?” he roars, once again in Bhojpuri. There is still no response. Nishad gestures at his grandson, who scurries after them. He turns back to me.

“They seem like they would be interested,” he says.

The hunch doesn’t hold up. But I see that Jha has managed to crack a deal. I follow him down the steps leading to the burning spot on the banks. The heat radiating from the surrounding pyres make every descending step more oppressive. We are standing between two nearly-ashen pyres. Jha is issuing instructions to the relatives on how to position themselves around the body.

The convener of the group unties the coir rope tethering the deceased to the bed. Six layers of white sheet are peeled off the face. The deceased is an old man, easily in his sixties, eyes shut, stubble on his leathery face. Jha asks the relative to adjust the head so that it looks skywards and pose. Almost theatrically, the chants in the background increase in tempo. Gusts of hot winds lash against our backs. The cows continue grazing on the offerings. A tourist out to see Incredible India looks on curiously and sips her Sprite. An undertaker pushes a log deeper into a pyre raging some distance away.

Click.

*

Back in Jha’s uncle’s shop, a bunch of photographers from the same trade have joined us. Somehow, everybody plays shy for my lens. “Would any of you like yourself to be clicked after you are dead?” I ask.

“Of course not,” the answer is unanimous. One of them is quick to add, “Who would?”






                                                            Image Courtesy: The Free Press Journal






The day Balasaheb Thackeray died, you could reach out and touch the electric tension in the newsroom. There were rumours as to how the man had died a few days earlier than Saturday. The death, they said, was hushed up in order to prevent the town from coming to a standstill. 

What was the situation like? It wasn't a mass-grief that would have engulfed the city, mind you. Opera House didn't down shutters at 4 pm because Ambaniben's shopping spree had already helped sell their quota of diamonds for the weekend. It was terror that gripped all, that sent exodus to their living rooms cowering under the light of their TV screen, to us in the newsroom sharing a single pack of bhelpuri procured from that only hawker at Churchgate station brave enough to go about his daily business, in spite of the possibility of being at the receiving ends of the Sainiks' fists. "Grieve, motherfucker, grieve." 

It was ridiculous. Being an English daily, our coverage was supposed to capture the collective hysteria than make a martyr out of the man. At the same time, one wasn't supposed to be largely critical. Fortunately though, after publishing the stock report of his funeral, my editor asked me to do an analytic piece on the Marathi press coverage:


Day 1:


For Old Times' Sake, Shiv Sainiks Throng Shiv-Tirtha


As published in The Free Press Journal on November 19, 2012.


At 6.10 pm, Shivaji Park witnessed pin-drop silence just as the sound of bugles rung into the air. A piercing voice of a commander followed and gunshots tore in, saluting the Maratha whose pyre lay in front of them. The somberness was palpable throughout the duration of the three gunshots. A passionate cry reverberated in the next moment - 'Parat ya, parat ya, Balasaheb parat ya' (Come back Balasaheb). Came 6.15 and Balasaheb Thackeray's body made headway into the skies.

The cremation of Balasaheb Thackeray was sound in its poetic flavour. With the arrangements made on a dais in front of the Shivaji statue to the Jagjit Singh's prayer ‘Hey Ram’ being played on loop since afternoon, there was a conscious symbolic imprint. As the flames clouded Balasaheb's pyre, Padmashree singer Padmaja Joglekar rendered Samartha Ramdas' poem 'Nischayacha Mahameru', written to commemorate the exploits of Shivaji.

People had already started assembling at the ground where Shiv Sena had launched itself in 1966 from as early as 5 am. There were hundreds of policemen in and around the venue. Barricades were erected at several spots to regulate the crowd that poured in the tune of thousands. With public transport conspicuous by its absence, the people took to streets as human largesse from every road gushed towards Shivaji Park. Mobile toilets and water tankers punctuated the junctions en route.

As people drove in hordes, several volunteer groups contrived to ensure a steady supply of food and water.

"We have been distributing tea, vada pav and water to the people since 11.30 am," said Vishal Shingade, a resident of Popatlal chawl at Dadar. Vishal, along with several locals, was involved in distributing the snacks free of cost.

The venue saw a shamiana built at the centre, in front of which was Balasaheb's pyre. There were several screens set up along the perimeter that showed the live feed from the stage. The high-profile guests started trickling in with Nitin Gadkari arriving at the venue at 4.30 pm. He was followed by BJP stalwarts like L K Advani, Sushma Swaraj and Arun Jaitely. Over time, several personalities from the Marathi television and cinema industry joined in.

The crowd thickened and people took to trees and neighbouring building terraces to get a dekko. There were life-size figures of Thackeray and bursts of saffron punctuating the air. As the ceremony drew to a close, even the policemen allowed the crowd's emotions to take over and several could be seen standing on the barricades.

"While there was a deluge of humanity all over the place, the crowd didn't get unruly. It was a peaceful and well-organized affair," said Isha Bopardikar, a resident of Shivaji Park.



Day 2:

                                                                                          Image Courtesy: Economic Times



For Saamna, Balasaheb is a demigod


As published in The Free Press Journal on November 20, 2012. 


That the Marathi press would unanimously lavish praise on Balasaheb was a given. However, most of the newspapers, chose to go a step further and canonize the politician. Equating him to a divine entity, the Shiv Sena mouthpiece ‘Saamna’ projected the demise of the party-founder by hailing it as an event of worldwide significance.


With a front-page headline reading, ‘The entire world witnessed Sena leader’s power and the Sainiks’ devotion’, it dedicated the entire issue with reportage related only to Thackeray’s death and the resultant grief.
“God had sent the Shiv Sena leader for the welfare of the world… Perhaps, the Gods found themselves in a crisis that he (Thackeray) was recalled to the heavens. Perhaps, Kansa and Raavana (demons in Hindu mythology) detained the Gods, making them cry out ‘Save us!’” read the paper on its third page.
While most of the newspapers had less than substantial coverage about the civic chaos, Saamna completely ignored highlighting the negative aspects. Among reports by other publications of people roaming on the streets in search of basic commodities, crowding around shops and waiting for it to open, Saamna reported people crowding near newspaper stands. “As the rest of the city was deserted, people were seen scouting for Saamna.”
Another daily ‘Lokmat’ had a philosophical take on the Sena chief. ‘In the end, it is fate that triumphs. Whether or not one was aligned to his views or openly acknowledged it, Balasaheb was respected throughout the state. The security that people felt has now permanently disappeared into the clutches of history,” read the editorial.
Maharashtra Times, the office of which was ransacked in January for carrying a story that portrayed the party in a bad light, played safe and dedicated their entire coverage to offer obeisance to the Sena chief. The front page carried a full-length aerial view of the hearse surrounded by the crowd with the caption ‘May he be immortal!’ The editorial, however, steered clear of much adulation and focused on the overview of the funeral and profiling the leader. It called Thackeray a “brilliant orator and politician” who had an “unpredictable style of politics”.
It was only the leading daily Loksatta that carried a critical piece of the entire ceremony and the arrangements. While devoting a significant coverage to the pervading melancholy, the editorial took a discerning view on the irresponsible comments made by the Sainiks.
“As unfortunate the death of Balasaheb is, even more is the Sena leaders’ behavior. In the days leading up to Saturday, every time a leader exited Matoshree, he spoke as per his fancy. As a result, the byte-hungry broadcast media had a field day,” it said.
The editorial went on further to criticise the lack of coordination at such a sensitive time. “The same happened when Uddhav Thackeray was admitted for angioplasty. Visiting Sena leaders were seen quoting that the angioplasty was successful, thus revealing their ignorance. Saying that an angioplasty was successful is as stupid as saying an X ray was successful.”